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Georgetown, Penang October 2003

Exotic Georgetown. There probably is no more multicultural city in the whole of Asia. The largest city on Penang Island, Georgetown (pop. 251,000) is a blend of cultures. The diverse Chinese, Indian and Malay population will fit anyone's image of an exotic South Asian seaport. The town is best seen by foot, in part because taxis are so hard to find,  exploring all the interesting little streets, or by bicycle rickshaw. Diners can enjoy a wide selection of good food at the local restaurants -- everything from Malaysian satays to Chinese stir-fry.

The city's most famous landmark is the Eastern and Oriental Hotel (the "E&O"). Set on the waterfront, the recently restored E&O was built in 1855 by the Sarkie brothers of Raffles (Singapore) and Strand (Rangoon) fame. Take the funicular railway up Penang Hill for the excellent view (there's also a small cafe, hotel and Hindu temple on top). Visit some of the city's other sights in the British colonial part of town: St. George's Church, Ft. Cornwallis and the Clock Tower (built in honor of Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee). You can also drive or walk along the waterfront, Gurney Drive, to see the beautiful houses built in the 1800s. Stop in the modern Gurney Hotel or Gurney Plaza to cool down.

Since my last visit, which admittedly was 19 years ago, an airport has been built and a bridge to peninsular Malaysia. The bridge has changed the city beyond recognition. The population has probably tripled in the last 19 years; there are highways, traffic jams, high rise buildings, and substantial new towns across the island.

Yet Georgetown still feels like a small city. Sadly the old docks area is very run down.

Taxis are elusive ! Meters are rare; they are not that expensive; its just frustrating !