Shanghai - brave new world in search of its heart

16 Feb 2003

(Pictures by Chen Ye)

Perhaps more than any other city in the world Shanghai is about making and spending money. It is an obsession and it drives the city's growth,

The changes are remarkable; but they leave the city without a centre and without a heart. The infrastructure is remarkable. A sparkling new granite and marble airport. This was built by men. It is crying out for a woman's touch; a little bit of colour or a little bit of whimsy.

The Pudong development area has been an architect's dream. Their buildings show fantastic size and shape. But there is no continuity to the buildings. They don't seem to fit together. The old Bund was an example of similar style buildings that seemed to all be in the right place. Not now; the skyline is confused and needs definition.

And the city needs a park and playgrounds. Every great city has a substantial park; a place where people go to find the green lungs of the city. And they need playgrounds where the next generation can be indulged and make as much noise as they like. You don't see too many kids on the streets of Shanghai.

It is also becoming a world class city in terms of prices. For those people who can afford it - living in style in Shanghai is easy to do and comes at a price.

But go and see the Xintiandi area; restaurants, bars, stores in a wonderfully renovated old style Shanghai. Go to T8 (at No 8, Xintiandi North Part) for dinner, its not cheap but it is very stylish.

Be cautious with local Shanghainese food; this can be very oily. One restaurant must have recycled its cooking oil many times.

But the lasting images of Shanghai are of far too many people smoking. And they are heavy smokers. Near the entrance (or exit if you are contrarian) of my hotel there are some seating areas occupied almost permanently by groups of men in heavy coats chain smoking !

It is a city where young professionals make money ! They work. they go out to eat and drink; they catch up with some sleep and they start all over again. It is a bit like the wild west used to be but with mobile phones.

Oh yes, mobile phones. They do not get turned off in cinemas. Ravel's Bolero for some two minutes was a bit unnecessary !                                         

The Grand Theatre is spectacular; but was dark on a Saturday night. Andrew Lloyd Weber's Cats is coming to town. There is culture. There are a galleries, an attractive Art Museum, and other museums. There us a new tunnel under the Bund - a tourist tunnel. That costs RMB 30 one way. The subway costs 2RMB to cross under the Bund !

A big, bold, brash city. 110% hard working but in need of a little more heart.