28 August 2006
Golf yesterday at Thana City GC. In a month's time there will be screaming
747s passing over the course on take-off from the new airport. The course
is in good condition and is a far better course than I remembered.
26 August 2006
The scoop on the alleged Thaksin car bomb. Police at the scene said
that they had found a 10 gallon can containing urea - and all they did was
give it a good soaking with a water hose to neutralise it.
By afternoon this had turned into a bomb that could obliterate
everything within a one kilometre radius.
Ho hum.
25 August 2006
Darrel Hair's bottom line - give me US$500,000 and I will resign.
Arrogant sod. Surely that is justification enough to fire him.
23 August 2006
A few more comments on Myanmar:
In Heho the Air Bagan flight offloaded a small amount of airmail. At a
desk in the dingy terminal there were two staff carefully writing in a
book the names and addresses of everyone who received an email from
overseas. If the senders address was on the back they also wrote that down
as well.
***************************
At every internal airport there is a desk where foreigners have to
register and show their passport. Again the details are hand written. They
know where you are....
***************************
People are genuinely pleased that you are there. Thank you for coming
was almost as often said as where do you come from.
***************************
Air Bagan's staff were very professional and very pleasant. English was
well spoken by all the crew and was the first language for their
annoucements; which says a lot about the ratio of international to
domestic travelers.
****************************
There is a new palace being build in Old Bagan. It looks completely out
of place and its pompous size and design do not fit into the historical
surrounds. But it is a senior government official who is building it and
as one local said to me "we are afraid."
*****************************
I sat at the River View restaurant in New Bagan high on the bank over
the Irrawaddy River. Fish and Aubergine curries, a beer, some fruit and a
bicycle in near darkness back to my hotel. That was the best meal of the
trip.
******************************
Worth mentioning that at no time did I ever feel unsafe. Whether
walking in Yangon city at day or night or in the countryside.
22 August 2006
I thought I was coming back to civilization. But then I tried to call a
friend in their Thai mobile number. I got through at the sixth attempt.
Which is better; to have no mobile phone access at all or to have a
network that needs six tries every time you want to make a call?
20 August 2006
But then who wants TV when on offer from TV Myanmar today are these
fabulous shows:
7.40am Nice and Sweet song
11.00am Martial Song (repeated at 4pm)
4.15pm Songs to Uphold National Spirit
5.15pm Dance of National Race
5.30pm Sing and Enjoy
The golf club yesterday seemed to prefer to watch Chinese programmes
(they spoke no Chinese) off satellite. I wonder why !!!
*********************
No TV in the Lake Inle hotel. Instead the hotel staff put on a
traditional dance show for the few of us at dinner.
There are many more staff here than guests. This seems to be a fact of
life in all Myanmar's hotels.
The mosquito coil is lit. The mosquito net is up. There is no aircon
but it is quite cool outside.
Travelling alone can be interesting; but on the whole the experience is
probably better shared with someone. I need a proper conversation.
And forget about internet and email access. I am more cut off here than
I have been for a long time.
*******************
It is hard to imagine what Myanmar would do without tourist traffic.
Here in Bagan most of the tourists are European; Italians and Spanish
appear the most common. And a few French.
I have not seen, or more realistically heard, an American accent.
As we wait to board Air Bagan to Mandalay and Heho (for Lake Inle)
there are no Burmese passengers. The airlines, hotels, horse and cart
operators, taxi drivers and local vendors are being kept alive by tourism.
There is little alternative work.
19 August 2006
The big news of the day: it is the opening day of the
English football season. Here I am in Bagan, Myanmar, watching my beloved
Watford playing away at Everton as they make their remarkable return to
the Premiership. A 3pm kick off in Liverpool is 8.30pm here. Meanwhile
Arsenal start their new season at the new Emirates Stadium. Two years in
the building and a great new stadium. Good business for Arsenal and for
Emirates! Now when will they finish Wembley!
***********************
I should sleep well tonight. 18 holes of golf at Bagan Golf Club in the
midday heat.
And then a good long cycle around the temples and down to the river for
a sunset dinner at the River View restaurant. Dinner was US$6 for a beer,
fish curry, aubergine curry, some papaya and a bottle of water. And a view
worth a million!
The golf course was an experience:
Very basic clubhouse. No changing room. A golf course that is fairway
and jungle; there is no rough, except for the fairways that are very rough
indeed. Unwatered cow grass fairways that are cut by hand pushed basic
cutters. They then use an army of women to hand brush the cut grass into
piles and collect all the grass by hand. Slow, tedious, hot and
uncomfortable work.
There is only one set of tees. Mens' tees. Golf is not a game for the
women of Bagan. Maybe it is not a game for anyone in Bagan. There was one
fourball playing the 9th as I started off. Otherwise there was no one else
on the golf course.
It is long at over 7,000 yards; and it is very basic. But where can you
play golf with 800 year old temples around you and even on the golf course
itself.
This is the 3rd hole: aim at the temple.

First day of the English football season and we have already had too
much of Andy Penders. Football analysis for people with an IQ of double
digits or less.
********************
Everton lead 1-0 at half time. Watford have played well. Five shots on
target and Everton have only had one; trouble is it went in! Andy
Johnson's diving is worthy of the Olympic pool. Shocking!
********************
Watford lost 2-1. Everton's second goal was a disgrace. The ball hits
Powell in the face. The linesman who is five yards away waves for a
penalty and the referee gives it. Quote Steve McMahon on ESPN; "it is
simply embarrassing." At 2-0 down it was game over.
If ever there was a need for video review that was the time. Powell
looked stunned.
Players and managers get fined and banned for bringing the game into
disrepute for saying how poor the officials are; surely the same should
apply to poor officials for shoddy decisions. That decision cost Watford
the chance of getting back in the game.
**********************
Manchester United must own all the goalkeeper's in the league -
Everton's Tim Howard and Watford's Ben Foster are both on loan from Man U.
18 August 2006
I was on Air Asia's inaugural Bangkok to Yangon (Rangoon to old
fashioned Brits) on Wednesday 16th.
Strangely there was no fanfare at all. No celebration at the departure
gate. No celebration on arrival. No tokens for the paying passengers.
Mind you there were not that many paying passengers. And those of us
who had paid were told to wait to deplane until the press
(parasites/hangers on/freebies) had been released first. The honest folk;
the fare paying folk; well we were not important.
************************
I had a room booked at the Kandawgyi Palace
hotel; an older hotel on the lake. Guess what; Air Asia were all
gathered there as well. Management, hangers-on and press. They had a big
evening party at the Lakeview restaurant. Local dignatories, more hangers
on. And where was my invitation !? I must be one of their better customers
and certainly one of their strongest advocates!
*************************
So I have a new favourite now. Air Bagan. Our 50 minute flight on a
Fokker100 from Yangon to Bagan left on time at 6.30am and arrived early.
Five cabin crew, lots of leg room, maybe a 34 inch seat pitch. Fresh
pastries, some fruit and coffee for breakfast. Very attractive crew;
although the pink uniforms and catering dishes were a bit bright for
someone who woke up at 4.30am.
15 August 2006
Miami Vice is a very strange film. Almost incomprehensible in places; a
Colin Farrell and Gong Li relationship? It simply does not work. Farrell
looks terrible and far from Miami chic. And why is it that all crime is at
night? This is a predictable yawn.
And don,t forget the soft core sex; the shower (twice), various beds
and the back of a car. None of it is interesting; none of it is arousing;
it is implausible and dull.
************************
I am off to Myanmar (Burma as was) tomorrow morning. Updates to this
website will be very rare (possibly impossible) while I am away.
14 August 2006
Anyone curious about what it is like to be flying at the pointed end of
an Emirates 777 should read
this report.
************************
I go out for 20 minutes and leave the cleaners in my room. I come back
and they have demolished the bathroom with a huge slab of tiling fallling
off the sink.
I thought they were sending someone to fix it. Instead they sent a guy
to photograph it!
************************
Ask my little guy what was the best part of his holiday ! He will tell
you it was the time spent in Devon with his grandmother and uncle.
Unlimited Sky TV and 24 hour a day "Top Gear" probably helped! But it is
great that he feels such a strong family connection.
13 August 2006
Golf today at Rajpreuk; a private members only club; so thank you to my
generous host. There was a nice breeze and except for a disaster on the
9th I played well. So it was a fun day.
*************************
My little guy - at 9 yrs old - is a great fan of Discovery Channel and
BBC World. It is cool that he is so well informed. The hard part is
answering all his questions. The worrying part is the number of times that
I have to say that I don't know !
12 August 2006
The little guy has gone home already and I miss him !
**************************
The Myanmar embassy has to be one of the most depressing places in
Bangkok. So slow and so uninterested and unmotivated to provide anything
that would vaguely resemble a welcoming service.
They really ought to be a little more exited that people still want to
visit their country.
***************************
Almost opposite the Myanmar Embassy is a travel agency (and coffee
shop) that will convince you (if you had any doubt!) about why you want to
see Myanmar and where to go and where to stay when you get there.
Ask for Paul Manuel, the Managing Director.
Orient Espresso
S & B Tower, 68-68/6, Unit 101, Pun Road, Silom, Bangrak,
BANGKOK 10500, THAILAND.
TELEPHONE: (66/0) 2 - 6377314-5,
FACSIMILE: (66/0) 2 - 6377316
E-mail:
info@orientespresso-bangkok.com
Website:www.orientespresso-bangkok.com