We woke in Dubai at 5am on 23rd December to be greeted by fog. Fog in Dubai. Truly. All the early morning arrivals were diverted around the Middle East; mainly into Muscat. This included our plane which was due to leave for London Gatwick at 7.55.

The 23rd was a Friday; the weekend in Dubai. It was also the business day of the holiday for international travel. Checking in was a nightmare. But this would just be the start.

The first queue was for security with all check in and cabin baggage to be checked before passing though to the check in area. There are two machines operating for economy passengers.

Dubai airport was packed. Check in queues leaked their way around the departure area. Even finding the end of the queue was a problem. Some people were trying to avoid this problem by simply pushing into the queues. Tempers were frayed. The biggest problem at this time was the lack of ground staff marshalling the queues or answering questions.

On reaching the check in desk (after about an hour) the girl at the desk told us that the departure time would be 9.30am with boarding from 8.45 at Gate 40.

Then there is another queue for passport control. Only about 10 minutes this time. Follow this with the long walk from the check in area to the departure gates which are in the middle of the airfield connected by underground walkway from the terminal building.

The stores were cramped and busy. We moved down to the gate and found a coffee cart for a long overdue coffee and bun.

Big crowds were gathering at Gate 40 but there was no announcement. I asked the staff who were clearing the Manila flight about ours to be told it would be leaving at 10.25am. But at gate 40 the Mumbai flight was boarding. We were told Gate 39; which had just cleared the Lagos flight. So everyone moves across to Gate 39. Then there is an announcement (at last!) that we are to leave from Gate 29. We get to Gate 29 to be told that the Gate is Gate 28. And after being bussed to our flight we eventually leave at 11.15am.

It was a shambles; the Dubai equivalent of a little snow bring London to a grinding halt. Emirates Airlines has grown so fast that they have outgrown the airport. Planes are parked at remote gates; the airport waiting areas and facilities are simply too small for a 777-300 passenger load, announcements are poor if any, and there are no staff anywhere to tell you what is happening. This was not the service-oriented, tourism-focused impression that the Emirates government wants people to leave with. But the airport was a complete shambles and no one seemed to care.

One sidenote is that you will read little about this in the newspapers. Self-criticism (at least in public) is simply not practised in Dubai.

Someone needs to remind the team running Emirates that the flying is not just about a new plane, decent meal and inflight entertainment systems. The experience starts the moment that you arrive at the airport.

The Bangkok Post has increased its price by 25% to Baht 25. And you still have to read some complete drivel. The latest piece of insensitive nonsense comes from Travel Editor Don Ross (who regularly writes nonsense). In today's paper he discusses media coverage of the tsunami anniversary and says:

"The media is delivering its own tsunami, digitally transported along with the sponsors advertisements at a time when common sense would say "lets move on".

Give the relatives of the victims the space to moan and remember their loss in a dignified manner, but there is no justification for reruns of hotels destroyed and the scenes of horrors. The news editors have got it wrong, again."

I hope he meant that the victims should be allowed to "mourn" rather than "moan." If not he was simply being offensive. In either case a more careful proof read would have been appropriate.

The official Thai News Agency reported today that the opening of the new Suvarnabhumi Airport is unlikely to meet its second deadline of June, 2006, and will be postponed again. The government was unable to advise when the new date might be.

The latest government position is that construction work and overall system check-ups of the New Bangkok International Airport airport would not be completed before next May 31.

The June opening date also clashes with state and nationwide events to celebrate the 60th anniversary of His Majesty the King's ascension to the throne. It looks like that visiting notables will have the pleasure of using the old airport.

The government earlier had said the airport would open on Sept 29 2005 and indeed a token flight was made to the airport on that day. Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra next announced it would open in June 2006. Just how dangerous and expensive was that September landing; it appears to have been at least a year premature.

A meeting of a government committee in charge of developing the new airport is scheduled for Dec 28, with Prime Minister Thaksin in the chair. A new opening date could be set then.

Christmas is everywhere in Muslim Dubai; but it is a very secular Christmas. The holiday trimmings without the symbolism.

In the mall of the emirates the huge blue and silver Christmas tree is surrounded by mechanical skating penguins. The locals are shopping, taking pictures and enjoying the holiday season. Carols play in the background; there were carol singers in the hotel last night but the words are meaningless here.

In neighbouring Saudi Arabia Christmas is banned. But Dubai has fashioned itself into a major tourist destination and Western tourists at this time of year clearly appreciate the efforts made to make them feel at home.

All the Christmas symbols in Dubai are secular; there are no crosses, no angels and no nativity scenes. Another example of how Dubai bridges different beliefs and values. Clearly, however, not everyone approves; one local man was reported as saying on radio that "we see all these Christmas decorations that have nothing to do with our culture and history. Maybe one day we will become like the Aborigines in Australia, strangers in our own land.

Somehow I don't think so; the Emiratis (albeit very much the minority) will always be in charge and they will be the people that profit most from every festival.

It is rather presumptuous to give first impressions of a place when you are so tired from jet lag that you just want to curl up into a ball and sleep.

Dubai - try and imagine an Islamic Orlando, Florida; and you will not be far wrong. AT this time of year the weather is ideal; blue sky, warm in the day, cool in the evening. Flat; new building everywhere. No one walks in this city. Public transport is non existent except for taxis which are all metered. Traffic and pollution are the issues that everyone complains of.

With a population of a around 1.2 million plus many illegal workers and labourers this is the most cosmopolitan of cities. The Emirati population is only about 20% of the total. Everyone else is the hired help; who have come to what is basically a frontier town in search of their share of the pot of gold. It is clear who is running the country. In the private sector Emiratis only make up 1% of the work force.

Dubai's place on the world stage is far greater than its size. The emirate is a friend to the West yet for progressive Arabs it is a sign of what is possible. Meanwhile for conservative Islam Dubai is far too liberal.

I was surprised how quite the city was as we walked by the Dubai Creek and to the Dubai Museum yesterday. But we did find most of Dubai in the Deira City Centre Mall in the evening. Shopping is a national pastime and the malls are genuine destinations in their own right. The western influence is strong in the malls; Christmas decorations, trees and Santa are everywhere.

The airline and airport are over rated; their greatest success is their self publicity.

10 Nov England v Australian Prime Minister's XI (Canberra) 12-14 Nov v New South Wales (Sydney) 17-19 Nov v South Australia (Adelaide) 23-27 Nov v Australia (first Test) (Brisbane) 1-5 Dec v Australia (second Test) (Adelaide) 8 Dec Cricket Australia Chairman's XI v England invitation XI (Perth) 9-10 Dec v Western Australia (Perth) 4-18 Dec v Australia (third Test) (Perth) 26-30 Dec v Australia (fourth Test) (Melbourne) 2-6 Jan v Australia (fifth Test) (Sydney) 9 Jan v Australia (Twenty20) (Sydney) 12 Jan v Australia (VB Series) (Melbourne) 16 Jan v New Zealand (VB Series) (Hobart) 19 Jan v Australia (VB Series) (Brisbane) 23 Jan v New Zealand (VB Series) (Adelaide) 26 Jan v Australia (VB Series)(Adelaide) 30 Jan v New Zealand (VB Series) (Perth) 2 Feb v Australia (VB Series) (Sydney) 6 Feb v New Zealand (VB Series) (Brisbane) 9 Feb First Final (Melbourne) 11 Feb Second Final (Sydney)13 Feb Third Final (if required) (Adelaide)

Singapore takes the sponsorship of Christmas to levels that I have never seen anywhere else. The lights are pretty enough along Orchard Road, and the crowds walking and shopping in the evenings are large. But the lights are sponsored by Hitachi and their company name is everywhere. Meanwhile the drummer boys along the side of the road are brought to you by Visa.

Everywhere you go along Orchard you are stopped by people trying to make you sign up for each and every card. The carol singers are out in force; and the salvation army is playing. And it is humid and wet. It really is hard to feel very festive !

The Straits Times has always made for depressing reading. Today's Sunday Times is worse than usual; it blazes in colour over one quarter of its front page its revelations in part one of a special report on Australia's drug menace titled - "Haven, for druggies and taxpayers pay for it. They can shoot heroin here, needles provided". The story runs on two full pages on pages 10 and 11.

The timing of the article; a week after the hanging of Van Nguyen, can hardly be a coincidence.

Meanwhile the Singapore PM's office released a letter yesterday from a certain Mr. Henry Smith, aged 79, from Queensland Australia. In his letter Mr. Smith applauded the Singapore Government for is stand against drug dealers. Prime Minister Lee's reply thanking Mr. Smith was also released.

Strangely the PM's office does not appear to have released my letter; to which there was no reply. Nor does the article refer to letters from Human Rights organisations such as Forum Asia or Amnesty International.

39 year old David Cameron yesterday became leader of the British Conservative Party. For many years this has been seen as a poisoned chalice; a hopeless fight against a well entrenched middle of the road Labour government.

But all this is about to change. Cameron sounds like a younger and more energetic Tony Blair; the Blair that was elected in 1995; not the Blair that is now lamely hanging onto power in the hope of salvaging something for his legacy that does not have Iraq stamped all over it.

Blair is history; he has announced that he is stepping down. He has anointed Gordon Brown as his successor. At least the Tory party had the decency to have a proper, and hard fought, leadership election.

The British national anthem is a piece of nonsense that should be scrapped and replaced by words that reflect the country and its values. Instead of singing about an individual we should be singing about a nation.

The current anthem is called God Save the Queen. There is not even a mention of the country; this is not Advance Australia Fair or Oh Canada; and as a tune it is a dirge; compare God Save the Queen to the sheer thrill of the Marseillaise. It is like comparing Pale Ale to Champagne.

God save our gracious Queen!
Long live our noble Queen!
God save the Queen!
Send her victorious,
Happy and glorious,
Long to reign over us,
God save the Queen

Frankly who really cares about the Tupperware and Corgi loving royals who by some misfortune of breeding are send to lord it over their subjects. I would rather be singing about "my home and native land."

Thailand rather wisely has a national anthem and a royal anthem; The royal Thai anthem, acclaiming the Chakravatin ideal King Bhumibol Adulyadej embodies, is played during state occasions and public meetings.

Is there an obvious replacement? My vote would be for Land of Hope and Glory. William Blake's Jerusalem has explicit religious references which are ill-suited to today's more inclusive climate. Or simply have a competition for a new anthem; I am sure Cliff Richard and Sir Elton John can both come up with something suitably horrible !

This miserable old song needs to be replaced by something that people are proud, and not embarrassed, to sing.

The South East Asian games are frankly something of a non sports events but fixed results and questionable officiating are tarnishing the image of the 23rd Southeast Asian Games being hosted by the Philippines. The accusations of cheating have been made by the Thai Prime Minister who said that "If the SEA Games continue to be like this, then it will become less popular because they have put a priority for medals over athletic spirit."

The Philippines did in fact top the medal table in the games, which finished today. They are also predictably upset at Thaksin's allegations which are un-statesmanlike, if not un-sportsmanlike.

Marlen V. Ronquillo of ABS.CBN news in Manila wrote that "Thaksin, embattled and challenged by a snowballing oust-Thaksin move, wants the Thais to shift attention from the protest rallies, the pestering insurgency in the Muslim areas and the yellow revolution to the harmless and win-win issue of ASEAN athletic competition. Leaders who are cornered often turn their attention to diversionary issues and what can better serve Thaksin’s cause than carrying the banner of Thailand’s athletic pride."

It should be noted that there were 2,319 official and judges at the Games; and only 308 were from the Philippines.

Meanwhile, a statement from the Thai Ministry of Foreign Affairs was necessary to try and argue that Thaksin's remarks were not directed at any particular country or party (oh, really?), "least of all the gracious host of the current Games whose generosity and hospitality have proven unrivaled. The thrust of the Prime Minister's remarks was intended to underscore his view that in such important international competition as SEA Games, the spirit of participation among all athletes is more important than the winning of medals." the statement said.

The trouble with cheating allegations is that they are easy to make and much harder to substantiate. No proof has been offered; but the image of the Games has been damaged and the medals won by some athletes devalued. All because of remarks that are not appropriate for a Prime Minister.

Nguyen Tuong Van was hanged at 6am local time (9am AEDT) at Changi Prison after Singapore refused to commute his death sentence for trying to smuggle nearly 400 grams of heroin to Australia through Singapore.

If ever there was a clear message to young people to stay away from drugs this is it. Hopefully that message will be heard loudly through the controversy over the use of the death penalty.

Appeals for clemency in this cased were made by Prime Minister Howard together with Australian opposition leader Kim Beazley, Governor-General Michael Jeffery, the British Queen's representative in Australia, Pope Benedict XVI and European Union officials. The Singaporean authorities remained firm in their use of a mandatory death penalty.

As Nguyen's coffin was taken away from the new Changi jail it passed the old Changi museum, which commemorates the 8,000 Allied lives lost as Japanese PoWs. Many were Australians captured while trying to defend Singapore from the Japanese invasion; many would have been executed at the end of a rope.

For 60 years, Changi has been known to Australians as a place of honour, where Australian servicemen and women endured the Japanese brutality. The Changi experience also helped to forge this island nation's independence.

Today, it has taken on a new meaning. It is now the place where an Australian was executed in the face of outrage, disappointment and sadness, both in Australia and around the world.

I remain utterly convinced that the use of the death penalty is wrong in all instances; and in this case there were clear grounds for clemency. Singapore appears to see compassion as weakness; I see it a sign of strength and confidence.

I can only hope that Nguyen died without excess distress and that his family can find peace.

The death of reason

The Age. Melbourne 2 December 2005

A young Australian has died a pointless, brutal death that mocks universal principles of justice, writes Mark Baker.

Kevin Barlow's mother said she felt the moment of his death. It came as she knelt at the window of her hotel room watching the dawn of July 7, 1986, rise over Kuala Lumpur, her tears spent and nausea rising in her chest. "At 6.08 my heart skipped a beat," she said later. "I knew it was over."

That moment, a few kilometres away in Pudu Prison, Barlow and his friend Brian Chambers were dropped through a gallows trapdoor. The bodies of the two convicted Australian drug traffickers were later carted away on the back of a prison truck, their tagged and exposed feet providing grotesque confirmation of their fate to the waiting television cameras.

Now the bells have tolled for Nguyen Tuong Van, victim of the same rough justice in Singapore - once an island appendage of the Malaysian federation, today a nation state with global pretensions but one still enamoured of medieval standards of justice.

How did the final moment pass for Kim Nguyen, another mother forced to endure not just one terrible dawn but three years of agony watching her son's life drift inexorably towards this unspeakable end? Can there have been any tears left to cry? Can anyone begin to contemplate the horror of her moment yesterday and the wounds she will carry to the last of her own days?

For many Australians, Nguyen deserved his punishment, or at least was the master of his downfall: he tried to smuggle a substantial quantity of heroin across international borders, knowing the severity of the penalties if he were caught, knowing the misery wrought by the drug trade, yet willing to take the gamble for great profit.

All of that is true. Yet how many could still believe this ultimate of punishments fits the crime had they, as I did, sat through the parody that was his trial and appeal before the Singapore courts. Who indeed could be so sure after watching the fearful young man in chains, flanked by an absurd squad of police with machine-guns, day after day staring silently up from the dock to his mother in the gallery above?

From the day of his arrest, Nguyen's fate was all but sealed. By a law that accused him of trafficking into Singapore when he had not entered the country, had no intention of entering the country and was plucked from an airport transit lounge on his way to Australia. By courts not interested in contradictory evidence and procedural abuses by police. By a government that mandates death for anyone caught with more than a relatively trivial 15 grams of heroin and refuses to let judges consider mitigating evidence. And by a phoney clemency process bereft of compassion.

In the end, Nguyen's execution was as much a political act as the outcome of a warped legal process - an act sanctioned by a stubborn, hard-hearted oligarchy and probably sealed by the conduct of our own leaders.

The Singapore courts had no real choice but to condemn Nguyen to death, but the Singapore cabinet - dominated by Lee Kuan Yew and his son and prime ministerial heir, Lee Hsien Loong - could easily have granted a reprieve. The fact that they didn't is a stinging rebuke to Australia and a sobering revelation of how little influence we seem to have with a country supposed to be our most important ally in South-East Asia.

Singapore's refusal to budge cannot simply be explained away by the reasonable proposition that an Australian citizen should not expect preferential sentencing treatment over Singaporean and other convicts. Singapore has bent to diplomatic pressure in other drug cases and the pious declaration by Singapore high commissioner Joseph Koh on Thursday that Australia and Singapore "share a common belief in the sanctity of the law" is a cruel joke.

Singapore's courts are little like the English (and Australian) model they ape. They are stacked with political cronies and kept under tight executive rein. They are compromised by the Government's habitual use of defamation laws to bankrupt and silence emerging opposition leaders in a what remains a rigid one-party state.

A more likely explanation for Singapore's intransigence is that this assertive young Asian nation remains less than impressed with the arrogant style of many Australians and their government - the government of Tampa and Nauru, of America's deputy sheriff and of the swaggering doctrine of military pre-emption - and might have been happy to use the killing of a young Australian to flag that message.

John Howard and his ministers insist they did everything possible, within reason, to save Nguyen. Maybe so. Perhaps not.

From the moment he first publicly declared - as he did weeks ago - that there was little more that the Government could do, while in the same breath saying that the case should not disrupt the important bilateral relationship with Singapore, John Howard may as well have been counter-signing the death warrant.

The message to the Singapore cabinet room - the real headquarters of Singapore Airlines, Optus and the rest of the big brands of Singapore Inc - was clear: the execution can proceed without any official fallout for our trade, investment and military ties.

That message was reinforced when, after Howard was told again at a meeting with Lee Hsien Loong during the APEC summit in South Korea last month that the hanging would go ahead, he carried on with commercial talks. What more did Lee need to know that it would be business as usual up to and after the execution?

Of course relationships between nations cannot be made hostage to the fate of individuals, but when others offend our standards and predominant beliefs as profoundly as this needless, pointless killing has done, then it's not good enough for our Prime Minister to wring his hands, mumble about "regret" (whatever that means) and swan off to the cricket.

Singapore should have been told from the outset and must be told now: state killing has no place in the modern world, if there are Asian values there are also Australian values, and there are many Australians who will express their sorrow and anger at this atrocity with their tourist dollars, their choice of airline and their telephone plans.

God speed, Van. Perhaps you have, in the probable last words of your executioner, gone to a better place than this.

Mark Baker is opinion editor. He was Asia editor, based in Singapore, from 2001 to 2004 and reported the arrest and trial of Nguyen Tuong Van.